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Members of the University Apparel and Licensing Committee have posted their final documents online for review and comment. [an error occurred while processing this directive]
May 1, 2001 response to President Jackson's Letter
May 1, 2001

Members of the University Community,

In the spirit of deliberative discussion, it is the hope of many members of this community that President Jackson is ready to engage in an active dialogue with students, faculty, staff, and alumni. We are responding to his April 26 letter in an attempt to open such a dialogue. For clarification, the goal of the campaign to improve sweatshop conditions in factories producing UR apparel is for this university to become a member of the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC). This non-profit organization utilizes full public disclosure of factory locations, adoption of a code of conduct, and localized verification of factory conditions to make university apparel production safe and fair.

President Jackson questioned the appropriateness of UR action, as well as our responsibility as a university to take action on this issue. He references the 1967 Kalven Report by the University of Chicago, which states that individual action by members of a university is preferable to collective action by the university as an institution. This report is not only outdated, but it was proposed in the face of anti-Vietnam protests and not manufacturing conditions. UR has traditionally assumed a leadership role in social issues, embracing the legacies of Susan B. Anthony and Frederick Douglass. Rochester was one of the first colleges to admit women and it took a formal stance against Apartheid in South Africa along with other universities ("Trustees approve divestiture," Currents, October 9, 1987).

Individual boycotting, as an alternative to university action, is not effective; boycotting can potentially result in the loss of jobs and is consistently not the request of workers. The university has effective action available using its purchasing power to contract for improvement of factory conditions, and this will not result in what the President refers to as "a University boycott." The WRC uses unannounced inspections by indigenous groups to verify factory conditions. If abuses occur the university can then approach its suppliers with the gathered evidence and remind them of their contractual obligations. Companies have consistently taken steps to comply with university codes of conduct.

In Mexico's Kukdong factory, a WRC monitoring mission interviewed 13 year-olds working 9-10 hours/day being paid far less than the Mexican minimum wage. Women and children were struck with hammers by the factory management and hundreds of workers were fired for organizing against these conditions. When the WRC disclosed these conditions to the public, Nike and Reebok took constructive action in response to the requests of various university administrations (NY Times, Jan 27, 2001, p C2). Hundreds of workers were re-hired and there was a reduction in the use of child labor at the Kukdong factory. Georgetown University President OâDonovan was "encouraged to know that monitors at the Kukdong site will remain on hand to ensure that conditions do not degenerate" in the production of GU apparel (President OâDonovan letter, Feb. 7, 2001).

We must remember that former UR President O'Brien originally argued that "the University should avoid taking moral positions" on issues such as Apartheid (President OâBrien letter, Nov. 24, 1986). After reconsidering the condition of Apartheid in South Africa he reported, "we are now in a position which is fully acceptable - the judgment to divest" (President O'Brien letter, Oct. 13, 1987). Neglecting to mention successes such as Kukdong President Jackson concludes, "nothing fundamental has changed this spring" in the manufacture of university apparel. Perhaps upon review of available information, President Jackson may reconsider his position as former presidents have done.

President Jackson raises the point that UR does not license its logo and receives no profits from selling its apparel. However, this does not justify shirking responsibility for conditions of apparel production. Many other non-licensing schools have taken action to protect their university name and apparel. President Jackson also states that UR has no responsibility beyond its academic governance and the welfare of members of the University community. It is precisely this exclusive view of community that serves to further stratify society, magnifying the distance between the safe haven of academia and factories in the Third World. UR has pragmatic actions available to improve conditions in factories that produce its apparel, and the opportunity to take effective and meaningful action is enough to prompt a university stance on this issue.

The University Apparel Manufacturing Committee was not jointly appointed by students. Seven of nine voting members were either appointed by or in consultation with university administration. Concerned students who initiated campus discussion of the issue were merely represented by a non-voting member. This committee was not representative of the university community; instead it was selected by the Office of the President and operated under his directives. There was no vote on disclosure permitted by the committeeâs chair, despite its proposal at four consecutive meetings this semester. The dissolution of the committee has resulted from its inability to make progress and to operate in a democratic manner.

President Jackson has failed to attend a single meeting of the committee. He claims to "have assiduously refused to engage with members of the No Sweat Coalition" and other students interested in communicating with him about the issue. The President has adamantly shunned communication with the two central bodies on campus researching our relationship to sweatshop conditions.

While President Jackson believes that "the pressure for action now is more fictional than real," encouragement for university action can be attributed to more than just a small group of students holding a minority opinion. Nearly 500 student signatures in support of WRC membership have been presented to the University Apparel Manufacturing Committee and President Jackson. Thirty-four faculty and staff members have signed a petition calling for disclosure of UR apparel factory locations. Additionally "UR Faculty and Staff for Full Public Disclosure," an organization separate from student coalitions, represents a faculty voice urging action. The issue has also received attention from the local Labor-Religion Coalition and the Rochester Labor Council (RLC) ö a group that represents 65,000 workers. The RLC recently sent a letter to President Jackson demanding immediate public disclosure and WRC membership for UR.

Hundreds of colleges and universities across the country are working together to improve conditions of university apparel manufacture. As of April 29, 82 colleges and universities (including Cornell, Columbia, NYU, and Syracuse) have joined the WRC. Eighteen of these schools contract apparel production through Barnes and Noble College Bookstores, as UR does. Some schools have faced administrative opposition, but ultimately decided to join the WRC in order to refrain from exploiting apparel workers. These 82 schools have joined the WRC, why not UR?

Sincerely,
Concerned UR students and alumni, No Sweat Coalition (urnosweat@hotmail.com),
UR Faculty and Staff for Full Public Disclosure

For more information go to http://www.members.tripod.com/nosweatcoalition

September 28, 2000 to President Jackson
September 28, 2000

Dear President Jackson,

We, the members of Amnesty International, would like to express our concern regarding the University Apparel Manufacturing Committee. The committee is now in its fifth month of investigation and rapidly approaching its recommendation deadline of November 1st. Since the committee's first meeting in April, there has been insufficient progress toward making its proposal.

As stated in your March 28th letter, this committee was designed "in the spirit of moving this issue along in a productive and rapid fashion." However, the committee has not proceeded in a timely or effective manner, and this is inconsistent with the declared objective. We are extremely concerned with the lack of an alumni representative, with the poor attendance record, and with the committee's poor communication to the university community. The absence of a clear focus and timetable by which the committee operates is a fundamental problem and must be addressed in order for the committee to provide an informed and thoughtful recommendation.

It is imperative to address these concerns immediately. In order for the committee to become productive and progressive, the following actions must be taken: 1. Selection of an alumni representative, 2. Full attendance and participation by all members of the committee, 3. Posting of committee meeting minutes in an accessible and publicized location, 4. Release of a timetable, including an agenda for the remaining committee meetings. It is crucial that these items be addressed in the form of a plan to be released by Wednesday, October 4th, and to be implemented before the committee meeting on Friday, October 13th.

Additionally, we would like to express our discontent with the timing of your response to be "within three weeks of [the] issuance" of the committee's report. Three weeks following the committee recommendation date is November 22nd; this marks the start of Thanksgiving break. The university community should have more time before the holiday break to receive and consider to your decision. Two weeks is a more appropriate amount of time to formulate and release a response to the committee's recommendation. This committee has been allotted months to research, discuss, and debate the issue. The university community deserves a public release of your response by November 15th.

With the goal of bringing transparency to this issue and improving conditions for workers who produce the apparel that bears the University of Rochester logo, the student voice is essential. The university community can contribute to an effective improvement of working conditions by joining an organization that has student involvement as a priority. We hope that the administration, committee, and the university community can cooperatively improve this process.

Sincerely,

Amnesty International

Vaidya Gullapalli, President
Emily Piltch, No-Sweat Coordinator
Anne Lyster, Business Manager
Sarah Clock, Secretary
Erin McCrossan, Educational Chair

April 3, 2000 to Administration and Amnesty International
To: Thomas Jackson, President Paul Burgett, Vice President and University Dean of Students Mary-Beth Cooper, Associate Vice President and River Campus Dean of Students University of Rochester Amnesty International and the Anti-sweatshop coalition:

From: Students' Association Government

It has been clearly shown that the issue of sweatshop labor and the role it plays in the production of apparel bearing the University logo is a complex one. Although this is an issue with many intricacies, it is one that deserves the full and serious attention of both the University community as a whole and the administrators of this institution. The University insignia is representative of the University community and more specifically the student body. Members of this community have given the University of Rochester a distinguished reputation; everything that can be done to uphold this reputation and to continue the University's traditions of education and open discourse should be done. The University's commitment to the ideals upon which it was founded should be demonstrated not only through everything that bears its motto "Meliora", but also in the production of the clothing that bears them.

With this in mind, we the Students Association Senate would like to commend the members of Amnesty International and the University's student initiated anti-sweatshop coalition. They have spent a great deal of time and put much effort into researching the topic and educating themselves and the University community regarding the issue. Their fight for issues such as full public disclosure, living wages, reasonable working hours, the right to organize and collectively bargain, protection of health and safety, compliance with local laws, protection of women's rights, freedom from harassment in the workplace, prohibition of child labor, forced labor, and forced overtime, as well as a mechanism with which to enforce these ideals, is one which we encourage them to continue. Furthermore, we support their efforts to convince the University to obtain knowledge of the conditions under which University's is apparel is manufactured. In order to properly represent the University, its students, its ideals and its reputation, obtaining this knowledge and taking a proactive stance is the necessary first step in addressing the issue.

In response to the demands of these groups, the administration has also dedicated itself to furthering its knowledge on the topic and taking a proactive stance. In order to do so, the University will be forming a committee to research the issue. This committee will convene for the first time the week of Monday, April 10th, and consist of three students, three faculty, two administrators and one ex-officio member of Amnesty International. The administration will also bring representatives from the FLA and WRC to discuss the ramifications of signing on with either. These representatives will be brought o a meeting of the committee which will be open to the public before the end of the school year. Preliminary findings of the committee will be released to the public by the Board of Trustee's meeting in May and a decision regarding the University's action regarding the issue will be made by the 21st of November.

Upon the 100th anniversary of co-education and the sesquicentennial celebration of the University, it is important that the University show that it is prepared to take a proactive stance. Furthermore, in a matter in which the University is pursuing the implementation of its ideals, the process that decides the proper course of action must itself be proper and just. With this letter, the members of the Students' Association Government will take their role in this dialogue by assuring that the University takes the appropriate steps in addressing this issue. It is our responsibility, as representatives of the entire student body, to make sure that our voice as students is heard in this process, that a reasonable time schedule is maintained, and that all other aforementioned acts are taken by the administration.

We are pleased to see that the University has laid out a plan of action to address this important issue, and hope that the members of the anti-sweatshop coalition will be willing to participate. We also feel that time is key in addressing this issue, and therefore hope that both parties will keep that in mind as they deal with it, allowing Amnesty International more opportunities to properly educate the University, and the administration the time needed to properly represent it. This effort to bring the administration and the students representing Amnesty International together on the same page will surely lead to an amicable solution to this matter.

[signed] Christopher C. Sabis
Speaker, Students' Association Senate

[signed] Scott Jennings
Students' Association President

March 28, 2000 to University Deans
March 28, 2000

TO: Deans Chiverton, Goldsmith, Green, LeBlanc, Parker, Plosser, Undercofler, and Wexler

FROM: Thomas H. Jackson

RE: Committee to Study University's Position on Apparel Manufacturing

Vice President Paul Burgett and I met yesterday afternoon with two students from the campus chapter of Amnesty International. The discussion was candid and cordial. While there are unquestionably differences of opinion and view on a number of issues, it is also my sense that the students understood the importance of the University's process and the need for deliberative discussion on this issue, as well as the necessity of involving individuals beyond Amnesty International and the Office of the President. They, in turn, emphasized their concern with the size, composition, and schedule for the committee, as described in my March 20th memo, to study and make recommendations on this issue.

The students proposed a smaller committee, composed of three students, two faculty members, two administrators, two staff, and one alumnus/a. Their suggestion was that the committee be appointed, in some fashion, jointly by me and by them.

While this is not, and cannot become, a bilateral negotiation, particularly in the area of fundamental university values, there are substantial elements of this suggestion that I can agree to, in the spirit of moving this issue along in a productive and rapid fashion without compromise of those core university values of discussion and dissent. While I cannot agree that an advocacy group committed to one outcome should have joint responsibility over the composition of a committee designed to hear and incorporate various University constituencies, I can agree with the spirit of a number of their suggestions. Accordingly, I am recommending the following membership, with (as before) Dean Mary-Beth Cooper as chair:

Students: Three students. One member of the Student Association President's Cabinet, appointed by the SA President in consultation with Vice President Burgett; one member of the College's Student Senate, appointed by the Speaker, in consultation with Vice President Burgett; and one chosen in a random fashion by Vice President Burgett from students nominated, in accordance with my March 20th memo, from other student governance bodies throughout the University.

Faculty: Three faculty. One member of the University-wide Faculty Senate, appointed by the Chair of the Faculty Senate Executive Committee; one member of the Faculty Council of the College, appointed by the Chair of that Council; and one appointed by the Provost of the University.

Administration/Staff: Two individuals: Dean Mary-Beth Cooper and Purchasing Director Quentin Roach.

Alumni: One Rochester-area alumnus/a, appointed by the Chair of the Trustees' Council of the College in consultation with Dean of the College Faculty Thomas LeBlanc.

As before, with our mutual interests to maintain an open process of deliberation and discussion, a member of Amnesty International will be an ex officio member of the committee, without a vote but with the right to attend all committee meetings. Other details of the committee's processes, including the form and forum for meetings, should be decided by the committee itself at its inaugural meeting and announced to the community generally following that meeting. The committee should make a recommendation to me in as timely a fashion as is appropriate, given the University's paramount value placed on reasoned discussions and decisions but no later than November 1st. I will provide a written response to the committee's report within three weeks of its issuance.

I hope and expect that the committee will thoroughly educate itself--and the greater campus community--on the issues underlying consideration of affiliating with any organization taking positions on or setting standards for manufacture apparel in countries abroad. I expect that will include invitations to a series of guests (which my office will fund), including the Workers' Rights Consortium and Fair Labor Association, as well as groups representing alternate points of view, to present their thoughts under committee auspices.

March 28, 2000 to the University Community
March 20, 2000

To: University Community

From: Thomas H. Jackson

Re: The University and Apparel Manufacturing

I recently received a letter from several members of the University of Rochester Amnesty International chapter, requesting that the University join, by April 1st, a group known as the Workers' Rights Consortium (WRC), concerned about and monitoring workers' rights in connection with the manufacturing of apparel that bears the logos of colleges and universities throughout the country. The concern is that apparel manufacturers, with plants outside of the United States, and often in third-world countries, are mistreating the workers of those countries in the manufacture of apparel that bears the logo of a higher educational institution (and for which a number of those institutions receive royalties). Attached to the letter is a petition asking the University to disassociate itself from "sweatshop labor." Associate Dean Mary-Beth Cooper and Purchasing Director Quentin Roach met with several signers of the letter to explore with them in greater detail their concerns and Vice President Paul Burgett has met with them at length as well.

While their beliefs are obviously heartfelt and important, I do not believe their timetable is appropriate.

Approximately a year ago, when this movement began, a monitoring group, known as the Fair Labor Association (FLA), was formed, receiving the endorsement of the American Council on Education. To date, well over 100 colleges and universities have joined the FLA, including Harvard, Yale, Princeton, Cornell, and Columbia. Recently, the FLA has come under attack as not likely to be as protective of workers' rights as critics believe necessary, and the advocates of this position, such as the authors of the letter I recently received, have proffered the WRC as the appropriate alternative on a number of college campuses. The FLA has some vigorous advocates as well, and a number of institutions – including Stanford, Chicago, Williams, and Rochester – have not yet joined either the FLA or the WRC. The WRC will have its "founding conference" on April 7th, at which a charter is expected to be adopted and a governing board created.

Although I understand the passions of those advocating that Rochester join the WRC, I do not believe the April 1st deadline is a date of such significance that we need to rush to action. At bottom, the reason for the "deadline" principally comes to this: The advocates, here and elsewhere, want "members" for the WRC prior to its April 7th inaugural meeting. But this passion to join the WRC comes before its major policy decisions – such as board composition or charter – are firmly known. And of course it will remain entirely possible to join the WRC after April 7th, as these details become known and after further reflection on the issues.

Given that lack of a pressing temporal urgency of true substance, and given the fluid nature of the WRC itself as I write, I believe it is essential to be true to our fundamental principle and tradition of examination and discussion before action. A university community, first and foremost, should be a community that does not rush to judgment without consideration of all the ramifications of its actions, particularly where the actions do not lie at the heart of the academic mission of the institution.

Let me explain a bit more fully why I do not believe the issue has been adequately discussed on campus, nor is "easy" enough to justify action to be taken before reflection. In my view – although I acknowledge that my voice here is only one of many – the issues of whether workers in third-world countries are better or worse off because of jobs that would not pass standards of developed countries such as the United States, are not within the particular competence of academic administrators to decide. (Nor is the issue of whether the condition of those third-world workers rises to the relevance of jobs or security for workers in this country.) These issues, in my view, are much better left to political decision making, or to the forces of the market (including boycotts by interested individuals), than to actions by academic institutions, unless and until they affect "core" academic missions. The wisdom of the University of Chicago's 1967 Kalven Committee still holds true: a university "is a community which cannot take collective action on the issues of the day without endangering the conditions for its existence and effectiveness." Too, the detailed current "requirements" (noting that some of them may still change) of the WRC reflect current standards in this country (even then, some of them recent and hard-fought); their blanket application to literally hundreds of other countries has potentially breathtaking ramifications, including political ones, that surely are not limited to the offshore manufacture of items of apparel. Reasons such as these have led recent institutions that have indicated a willingness to "join" the WRC, to do so conditionally, seeking change from within, and have led them to note "[v]irtually every commentator admits that there is no immediate solution to the longstanding labor problems spanning continents and cultures" (President Lee Bollinger of the University of Michigan). Moreover, despite the appeal of this issue on campuses where the institution derives substantial income from royalties for allowing their logos to be used on apparel, the issue is distinct for Rochester, which does not charge manufacturers for logo use on merchandise sold on campus.

I note these issues not to decide them, but to suggest that it is incumbent on us to recognize their existence before we face a decision as to whether – and on what terms – to join either the WRC or the FLA. This is particularly so when the terms of what it means to "belong" to either organization is so evidently fluid.

Again, because I do not believe the case for action by April 1st is compelled by matters of true substance – although I do understand the desire, and need, for a University decision on this in due course – I am asking a committee of representative University constituencies to be formed to study this issue. The issue clearly involves students, as well as others in our community, and it involves University-wide policy; the committee should reflect this broad involvement. Thus, the committee will be composed as follows: (1) from each school, one student representative from an elected student governance body; (2) the chair of the Faculty Senate Executive Committee (or his designee) and, from each school, one faculty representative from the elected faculty governance body of that school or, absent such a governance body, one faculty representative appointed by the Dean of the school; and (3) Vice President Paul Burgett, Associate Vice President Mary Beth Cooper, Dean William Scott Green, and Purchasing Director Quentin Roach. A student representing the Rochester chapter of Amnesty International shall serve as a non-voting ex officio member of this committee. While I hope this committee, which I am asking Mary-Beth Cooper to chair, can begin its work immediately, I am also cognizant of the calendar, and do not insist that it complete its deliberations this semester (although it might). I will ask this committee to provide me, and perhaps ultimately the Trustees, however, with a recommendation as to the appropriate University course, not later than the end of the upcoming fall semester.

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